I was sorta nervous. Hull (total noob). Backside (eh). Malibu (I saw more pairs of fake tits on the beach, than people who knew what they were doing in the water). Kooks (see previous). Worm was out, someone had smashed the nose of her death dagger.
I surfed for 3.5 hours. 2.5 on the hull, until I saw this.
Anyways, I started a bit up the point on 1st. Caught a few waist high waves. Get up, grab rail and hold on. Pretty cool. But not what I was looking for.
I moved a bit down the point to a more makeable section, a little inside the dudes who were furthest out. I caught a bunch of waves (which totally surprised me, Malibu usually has an uncanny ability to shame me), and by the end, I think I had the hang of the thing. The projection off the bottom on a good bottom turn is insane. I had a few that made the mission a success.
Anyways, I noticed the ding and grabbed the Pistolero. I had a few good ones all to myself. Then I got stuck in a rut of no waves for a bit and I bailed.
I ended up at Bay Cities Deli for a large Godmother Sandwich and a Bud Heavy.
Before:
After:
I was sitting on the patio, almost done with my food when some kid rolls up and asks me if I'll buy him a 40. I told him I thought he looked like one of those undercover kid cops and that he'd prolly bust me when I came out with the booze. He was like, "huh?" I decided against it. We made shitty fake ID's and frequented shady liquor stores when I was underage, I don't think we ever asked random strangers. I'm not gonna hold his hand and just make it that easy. Kids.
Note: Municiple Waste is gonna fuck you up.
