Mr. Bruce Jones, by Leo Hetzel

One of the few perks of working at a surf shop for the better part of my life is that every once in awhile, I stumble upon something totally kick ass that nobody else wants anything to do with.

"Old Surfers Journals? Kolohe's not in those! Fuck that"

Case and point, HUGE stacks of back issue surfers journals. I love these things. Nothing beats a healthy colon evacuation while reading a surfers journal I haven't thumbed through a thousand times over. Probably the highlight of my morning/night dump. This issue I came across from winter of 2000 (volume 9, #5) has a bitchin photo of the legendary Bruce Jones.

Bruce made me some boards when I was in high school and they always worked reallly well. One of the most stoked days of my surf youth was when he let me straight trade a pretty beat up performance tri-fin he made me that I mostly used for school contests and what not, for a brand new 9'6 noserider. I was frothin to say the least.

Cheer's to Bruce and this epic shot taken by the one and only Leo Hetzel. Knee paddling out solo towards and A frame. Does it get any better?

"Nobody Surfs forever" - The Bear

Found this little teaser from Jody Lemmon's surf movie entitled "Thrive" The Surf Movie.

Here's the link - http://www.amphibiousproductions.com/thrive_surf.html

Your gonna have to copy and paste that one because my safari is outdated and blogger is bein a tramp right now, but I swear it's worth it.

The dudes in this video were hands down the best surfers from north Orange County on longboards and I would argue the best in California for the time frame (mid 90's early, 2000's). Growing up these guys were about 5 or 6 years older than myself, Danimal, and our other log friends, so we kinda looked up to their surfin skills even though some of them were dicks to us. Greg Ervin, Cody Faircloth, and Matt Stuek were always my favorites to watch, sometimes I'd just sit on a fire pit at Bolsa and observe.

Anywho, I'm not entirley sure what these cats are up too, with the exception of Cyrus Sutton, who i think was the youngest bruce jones rider, and is obviously currently surfing insane and doing original higly skilled film stuff. Every once in awhile when i'm at Sano I see Faircloth riding some super old hansen 50/50 surfing better than anyone out in the line up and I'm pretty sure he's doing it piss drunk. I saw Matt Stuek at bolsa once last winter (still rips). Dave Roberts I heard lives in Hawaii, and Greg Ervin works at Bev Mo, but again that's only hearsay. To see these guys all out together at seal, taking over the pier like they used to do, would be an occasion I would drop whatever I was doin just to watch.