I have never been that interested in big wave surfing. Everytime there was a maverick's section in a film I would lose interest pretty quick. It was big, impressive, and overall a little boring. Watching dudes make drops on huge waves over and over just didn't do it for me. For the same reasons I did not like watching the vert sections of skate videos. I wanted to see guys ripping small waves or out street skating a local ledge. In a lot of ways I still feel the same way. Something has changed though. Maybe its maturity, but this recent run of huge swell and big wave contests has really sparked my interest. I think it has a lot to do with the new breed of big wave talent. Most neteable being Greg Long. He is young, driven, stylish, and a charger. It's nice to see a fresh face riding these monsters. Fuck Laird and all his homies. They are super heroes for sure, but I have had enough. They should just buy a boat and start water skiing full time. I feel like there has been some kind of disconect for me with big wave riding. Laird never seemed like "one of us." He wasn't really a surfer to me. Us normal guys could never afford to do what he does. It seems that dudes like Greg Long fit my surfing bubble better. The "normal" guys seem to be getting a chance to shine.
These photos are from the Eddie. I think thats the board and wave that won it for him.
2 comments:
I always kinda felt the same way. I have become super interested in it as of late.
I think it is the sense of adventure and the hunt that makes it so rad. It is a mission to find these waves.
Besides, there is nothing sexier than a gun. Hands down the coolest surf craft.
you have always been somewhat of a charger though. I have a perfect picture in my mind of you superman-ing off that 70's single fin with the banana on it into a massive close-out at Anderson st.
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