Burnage

Ok. I am guilty. I burned this dude this morning.

We're both paddling for the same wave, he is a little deeper. I can't see him, as the rights are facing directly into the dawn sun...I didn't think he got it, so I went...got in trim, pulled in, came out...naturally.

Anyways, I kick out, he is shaking his head yelling "Nuh uh, Nuh uh, No!!!" I paddled up to him, apologized, saying I didn't think he caught it. Then he said something about sending me to the "emergency room" (I'm not sure if my story telling ability is conveying how pissed this dude is.)

Anyways, I said "my bad" and paddled away.

Whatever broseph. I had never seen you here before. You show up to a place my friends and I have been surfing for years (every day, not just the days there are swell) after they build this jetty that makes things better than they were before. You are riding a longboard (I was wrong boarding too, but not trying to pretend it is a 6'0") suuuuper aggro-like, and you are wearing a freaking kook kord and its only chest high at best.

Anways, I get out about a half hour later to make it to work on time and I see TJ on the beach. He said it was a sick wave and that guy kicked his board at me on that wave. He said it came close. I was unaware.

Yeah, my fault, but the point of the story is that dude is a donkey, the waves have been firing lately, and they are likely to get better in the coming week.

Whenever I see someone who's ability I doubt, or like in this instance, are wearing a leash on a longboard, it is usually a dead giveaway of their surfing ability...So, myself being the prudent shredder that I am, err on the side of caution because a lot of dudes blow good waves and I am there to pick up the pieces. I get stink eyes all the time because I paddle for waves that other dudes are paddling for, because at this break, there is a good chance they are gonna roll the windows down and flail.

MDJ put it best. "Make waves...not friends."

See you in the water!